Leading Lady Dress Pattern #1173

MATERIALS J.& P. Coats Knit-Cro-Sheen, 14 balls of White or Ecru, or 16 balls of any color; and 2 balls of a contrasting color (contrasting color is used for belt and pompons only). Milward's steel crochet hook No. 8. An 18-inch zipper, to match contrasting color.

BLOUSE (Back)... Starting at bottom, make a chain (9 ch sts to 1 inch) to measure 17 inches.

1st row: Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each of next 5 ch, * skip 2 ch, ** dc in next ch, ch 2, dc in same ch (2 sps made). Repeat from * once (an openwork group); dc in each of next 6 ch, skip 2 ch. Repeat from ** across until 10 dc-groups are made (9 openwork groups in row). Cut off remaining chain. Ch 3 (to count as dc), turn.

2nd row: Dc in each of next 6 dc, * skip 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, skip 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2; dc in each of next 7 dc. Repeat from * across. Ch 3, turn.

Repeat 2nd row, increasing 1 dc at both ends of 5th row and on every 3rd row thereafter until 6 dc are increased at each edge - to inc. 1 dc, work 2 dc in 2nd st from end of row. Work without increasing (13 dc in each end group) until piece measures 7½ inches.

To Shape Armholes: Sl st across 1st 9 dc, ch 3, continue in pattern across, omitting last 9 dc. On each of next 2 rows, sl st across 1st 2 dc, ch 3, continue across, omitting last 2 dc. Next row: Sl st across ch-2 and 1 dc (thus decreasing ½ openwork group or 2 sps). Work in pattern across, decreasing at other end to correspond. Then work without decreasing until piece measures 7 inches from 1st row of armhole shaping.

To shape shoulders, on each of next 4 rows sl st across 1 openwork or 1 dc-group, as the case may be, and continue in pattern across to corresponding point at other end. Fasten off (these 4 dc-groups form back of neck).

RIGHT FRONT... Starting at bottom, make a chain 10 inches long.

1st row: Work as for 1st row of Back, but make 4 dc (instead of 7 dc), in 1st and last groups, until 6 dc-groups and 5 openwork groups are made (only 4 dc-groups at center are complete groups). Then work in pattern, keeping both edges straight, until 5 rows in all are made.

6th row: Inc. 1 dc in 2nd st (this is side edge) - to inc. 1 dc, work 2 dc in 2nd st from beginning or end of row, as specified - and continue in pattern across.

7th row: Inc. 1 dc at same edge as before. Then work in pattern, increasing at side edge as follows:

Next row: Ch 5, dc at base of ch-5, dc in next 6 dc, continue across. Following row: Work across, ending with 7 dc, skip 2 ch, dc in 3rd st of turning ch-5, ch 2, dc in same place.

Next row: (Even row) Ch 3, skip 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in each of 7 dc, continue across as usual. Following row: (Even row) Work in pattern across, ending with 7 dc, skip 2 ch; dc, ch 2 and dc in next dc.

Next row: Ch 5, dc at base of ch-5, skip 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in each of 7 dc, continue across. Following row: Work across, ending with 7 dc, skip 2 ch; dc, ch 2 and dc in same dc, dc in 3rd st of turning ch-5, ch 2, dc in same place (4 sps are now increased). Then inc. 1 dc at same edge every other row until there are 4 dc in each end group. Now work in pattern without increasing until piece measures 8½ inches, ending at side edge.

To Shape Armhole: Sl st across 1st 4 dc, across 4 sps and next 7 dc; ch 3, continue in pattern across. On next row, omit last sp of openwork group. Ch 3, turn. Following row: Dc in dc immediately preceding dc-group, continue across. Next row: Work across, ending with 7 dc, skip 2 ch, dc in next dc. Then continue in pattern, decreasing 2 dc on each row at same edge, and keeping center front edge straight, until 2 dc-groups and 2 openwork groups have been decreased. Work without decreasing until piece measures 7 inches from 1st row of armhole shaping.

Shape shoulder to correspond with shoulder shaping of Back, at the same time changing 1st openwork group into 7 dc's at neck edge on 2nd row of shoulder shaping, and next openwork group into 7 dc's on 3rd row of shoulder shaping. Do not break off, turn. Thereafter dec. 3 dc at shoulder edge on each row - by making sl st across 1st 3 dc or working to within 3 dc from decrease-edge, as the case may be - until no sts remain (this turns down to form collar). Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT ... Work to correspond with Right Front.

SLEEVES ... Starting at bottom, make a chain 14 inches long.

1st row: Work as for 1st row of Back, having 8 dc-groups and 7 openwork groups in the row. Work 1 row in pattern.

Then, keeping in pattern, inc. 1 dc or 1 sp at both ends of each row (as the case may be), until 1 whole openwork group and 1 whole dc-group are increased at each edge. Work straight until 15 rows in all are made.

To shape top of sleeve, on next row sl st across 1st dc-group, work to corresponding point at end of row. Then dec. 1 dc or 1 sp, as the case may be, at both ends of each row until 4 dc-groups remain (3 openwork groups). Dec. 2 dc at both ends of each of next 2 rows - by working off 2 dc as 1 dc twice. Fasten off.

POCKETS (Make 2)... Starting at top edge, ch 36.

1st row: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in each ch across. Ch 3, turn.

2nd to 10th rows incl: Dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn. Do not ch 3 at end of 10th row.

11th row: Sl st across 1st 6 sts, sc in next st, half dc in next st, dc across to within 8 sts from end of row, half dc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st, turn.

12th row: Sl st in sc, in half dc and in 4 dc, sc in next st, half dc in next st, dc in each of next 6 sts, half dc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st. Break off.

Keeping work flat at corners, with right side of work toward you, work sc around edges, omitting top edge. Fasten off.

Sew up underarm seams, easing in the extra fullness of Fronts 1½ inches down from armhole shaping. Sew up shoulder seams to within collar section. Sew up sleeve seams and sew sleeves in, making 3 small pleats at top. Sew pockets in place.

SKIRT (Back) ... Starting at bottom, make a chain 34 inches long (9 ch sts to 1 inch).

1st row: Work in pattern as for Blouse until 19 dc-groups (18 openwork groups) are made. Cut off remaining chain. Work without increasing or decreasing for 5 inches.

Then dec. 2 dc at both ends of next row and every 3rd row thereafter twice. Then dec. 1 dc at both ends of every other row or 1 sp at both ends of every 3rd row (as case may be) until 11 dc-groups remain. Dec. 1 sp at both ends of each of next 4 rows (4 dc in end groups). Piece should now measure about 28½ inches. Fasten off.

(Front) ... Work exactly as for Back until piece measures 25 inches. Find exact center of row and mark with a colored thread.

Hereafter (continuing side shaping to correspond with side shaping of Back) work over ½ of row to within colored thread, having 4 dc in end group at center front, until piece measures 28½ inches (5 openwork groups, and 4 dc in end groups). Fasten off. Attach thread at colored thread and work over remaining half to correspond.

BELT ... Starting at long end with contrasting color, make a chain to measure 45 inches (9 ch sts to 1 inch).

1st row: Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across until row measures 39 inches. Cut off remaining chain. Ch 3, turn.

2nd to 6th rows incl: Dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn. Fasten off after 6th row.

Ch 60, skip last 60 dc of 6th row, dc across to within 60 sts from end, ch 62. Turn. Next row: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc across row, making 1 dc in each of last 60 ch. Ch 3, turn. Hereafter work as for 2nd row until 13 rows in all are made. Fasten off.

Sew up side seams. Sew skirt to blouse at waistline. Sew zipper along center fronts, from bottom of center opening on skirt to within collar section of blouse. If desired, shoulders may be stiffened with crinoline. Wear belt with corresponding ends tied.

POMPONS (Make 2)... Cut 2 circles of cardboard, each 2½ inches in diameter. Then cut a circle 1 inch in diameter at center of each cardboard. Place 1 cardboard circle over the other. Cut 12 strands of contrasting color, each about 4 yds. long. Draw 1 end of these strands through center of circle from back, pass them over outer edge and draw them through center of circle again. Continue thus until center circle is filled in, using additional strands if necessary. With sharp scissors, cut thread at outer edge, between cardboards. Cut three 7-inch strands of thread. Tie center of these strands securely between cardboard circles. Remove cardboards and trim pompon evenly. Fasten the loose strands of each pompon to pull of zipper.

This free pattern originally published in Spool Cotton #128, Cotton Flash!