Collar and Cuffs Militaire Pattern #2120

The entire collar and cuffs are made in sc, picking up only the back loop of sc of previous row, to form ridge. In working collar, at end of each row throughout, ch 2, turn and at beginning of next row, make a sc in 2nd ch from hook (thus increasing 1 sc at beginning of each row to give slant).

Beginning at neck, with Ecru, ch 201, turn.

Sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc in each ch across. Ch 2, turn.

Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each sc across, ch 2, turn.

Work 46 sc, increase 1 sc in next sc (to increase make 2 sc in 1 sc), * work 20 sc, increase in next, repeat from * 5 more times, work remaining sc.

4 sc, ch 9, skip next 8 sc, 1 sc in next sc, this forms 1st buttonhole. Sc in each sc across.

Sc in each sc and 1 sc in each st of ch-9. No increases.

41 sc, increase in next sc, then increase in every 25th sc.

Sc in each sc. No increases.

Increase in every 20th sc.

Sc in each sc. No increases.

4 sc, make 2nd button hole (like 1st), sc in each sc across. (All buttonholes should come on same side of collar.)

28 sc, increase in next sc, then increase in every 14th sc, to within 28 sc from end. Sc in each of 28 sc.

Sc in each sc. No increase.

30 sc, increase in next, then increase in the 11th sc for 20 times. Sc in each of remaining sc.

Sc in each sc across.

Make 3rd buttonhole, and work sc across.

Sc in each sc. No increases.

41 sc, increase in next sc, then increase in every 12th sc for 20 times. Sc in each of remaining sc.

Sc in each sc. No increases.

Make 4th buttonhole. Sc across.

28 sc, increase in next sc, then increase in every 12th sc for 20 times. Sc in each of remaining sc.

Sc in each sc. No increases.

Increase in every 11th sc.

Sc in each sc across.

Make 5th buttonhole. Sc across.

Sc in each st across. Do not break but work a row of sl sts along edge of collar on buttonhole side, making 1 sl st to each row. Break off.

Border is worked in 2 rows of Blue and 2 rows of Ecru alternately. Ch 2, turn at end of each row, and skip the 1st sc at beginning of each row.

Attach Blue to end st at neck edge on buttonhole side (the opposite edge is for buttons) and work sc in each st along buttonhole edge and across lower edge to next corner (do not work along button edge). Ch 1, turn.

Work sc in each sc, making increases as necessary to keep work flat and circular. Increase more often at the corner on buttonhole side to make curve lie flat as in illustration. (7 Blue ridges and 6 Ecru ridges.)

With Ecru, ch 86, turn, and work 40 rows of sc as in collar, increasing 1 sc only at beginning of odd rows (the slant for buttonhole side) and working evenly at beginning of even rows. Besides these, make no other increases. Make the buttonholes on the 7th, 15th, 23rd, etc. rows, same as collar.

Consists of 7 ridges (4 Blue and 3 Ecru) worked as in collar.

Work as for left cuff, reversing directions for increases and buttonholes—thus increase at beginnings of even rows and work evenly on odd rows.

With Blue, make a loop over which work 8 sc, work around sc picking up back of st only, increasing enough to keep button flat and until large enough to cover the surface of button mould. Then dc 1 row all around. Place button inside and sew up securely. Wear collar as in illustration, marking places for buttons to correspond with buttonholes. Then with a sewing needle and thread sew buttons on.